If there’s one thing we’ve learned about living here, it’s that we do a ton of living outside. Between each at-home learning break the kids are out there running around, we make s’mores at our fire pit every week or so, we sit on our front porch and watch the neighborhood dogs go by, and we often eat or hang out on the second-floor deck (we even work on our laptops up there on especially nice days – which is where I’m writing this post right now).
We can really feel the house working extra hard for us thanks to the location/climate (good weather definitely encourages us to be outside a lot), but also due to having so many great outdoor areas for us to enjoy (we had no idea how awesome an upstairs deck would be, but boy do we appreciate having it!).
Another pretty fortunate occurrence is that a lot of these outdoor areas just needed one or two simple updates to go from “things we used to walk by” to “a spot that gets used every day.” Like this covered porch…
You last saw it in this post about our house’s exterior updates (there’s also this more recent exterior post) – and it sat pretty much unused for the last 8 months until we realized it was the perfect spot to hang a big hanging tent that we got for the kids for the holidays.
Hand Screw Clamps have been used for hundreds of years yet I never fully appreciated how versilte they were in a shop until this year. Let me show you 9 useful ways you can put them to use.
Hand screw clamps can just as easily be used as a big adjustable wrench. For example, I needed a way to lock my grinding wheel in order to remove the nut and change the disc. I bought this used and didn’t have the right size so I used a large handscrew clamp to hold onto the wheel and a smaller one to tighten down onto the nut. I’ve never bothered buying a large wrench since this trick works so well.
Have you ever had something too long or maybe awkward to clamp up with bar clamps? If your project has a bottom or back that won’t be shown then try this: drill one 1/4” hole in each piece at the connection point.
Now drill a 1/4” hole in the end of the hand screw clamps.
Cut the head off two 1 1/2” 1/4” bolts and thread this into the holes of the hand screw clamps.
Tip: If you use two nuts at the top of the threads, you can use a wrench to quickly and easily thread these in.
Now we have created a pinching device, so that you can place the protruding ends of the threads into the parts holes and as you tighten down on the hand screw clamp, it will bring the joint together and apply pressure as the glue cures.
If you have something you can’t put holes into, then try this. Attach a hand screw clamp to each work piece you’re trying to join together.
Tighten down on them pretty good so that once you have your boards aligned, you can use another clamp to squeeze them together. Again, applying pressure to the joint while the glue sets up. You can flip the board around to repeat not the other end as well.
With these clamps always being made out of wood, you can quickly extend them to meet any far reaching clamping needs. Simply grab some scraps and use screws to attach them to the jaws.
Now you can reach the inside of a project where the normal jaws, or other traditional clamps, don’t have the throw.
If you’re needing to work on the edge of a board, take two hand screw clamps and clamp them to your board on their side.
They have such a great footprint when laid over, they make a quick and easy stand. Then if you’re doing something really aggressive like planning the edge, then you can always clamp down the clamps.
Now lets say the board you’re working on is too large to be on top of a workbench. Grab a sawhorse, or any other flat surface at the correct height, and clamp a hand screw clamp down.
Now use it to reach out and grab whatever you’re needing to stand vertical so that you can get to work on it’s edge.
Those two are for holding onto something flat, now for holding onto something round. You can make some simple attachments for the jaws that has a V cut out.
When you need to use them, pull out some double sided tape and stick them both on.
Cut the strip down the middle then peel and stick each one to the inside of the hand screw clamp.
Now you can tighten down on anything round and either use a variety of clamps to hold it sideways (lets say if you want to cut it or paint it) or you can use it’s large footprint to make it stand up straight so you can access the ends.
Have a small part to work on? Handscrew clamps are always a great answer for getting the job done. Whether it be on the drill press where you can clamp the clamp to the deck
…..the bandsaw, where you can easily move the part close to the blade while your fingers stay away
……or even on the router table where no part is too small to add some detail to the edge.
Then don’t forget a major area where the unique design of the hand screw clamp really shines is holding down angles. Having the ability to move the front independently from the back means clamping onto awkward angles a breeze.
Hopefully this has helped you out and given you ideas for your own shop. If I have left out any of your favorite tips, please leave a comment below for myself and others. I’ll see you on my next project!
I met Brandy Aube a few years ago at a Makers conference and checking out her work, it just blew me away so when I was asked by Make48 to pick a partner to collaborate on a project with, she instantly came to mind.
Watch HERE for a great video covering Brandy and her work if you want to hear more about her story.
We started this adventure by three of us moving out the 500 lb slab that I’ll use to make the top of the table. It’s a piece of Tulip wood brought all the way from Missouri and I’ll tell ya this, it was one stunning piece of wood.
If you’re going to be picking a slab to make your own table, then one thing I would recommend is checking it’s moisture content first. If the slab is not properly dried or all the way dried, then it’s going to move on you and create problems.
I personally use a Wagner Pinless meter. A lot of meters have pins that stick slightly into the surface of the wood but this can be misleading. Pinless is not only non damaging but it gives you a reading that measured moisture IN the wood and not ON the wood. This particular meter, the Orion 950, will also calculate if a slab is at the critical threshold where it has reached its equilibrium with the environment and will no longer gain or lose moisture. I say slab, but you can also use this on wood flooring or any other wooden projects. You can also connect it to your phone using bluetooth and get all sort of data.
Thankfully, this slab was donated and driven down by Millers Rustic Sawmill for this charity build, and was not only dried perfectly but Bucky also flattened it for me so I could hop straight into work on it.
An organization called Make48 set up this entire build.
The primise is Makers have 48 hours to complete a project, then that project typically gets donated to an organization or charity.
The receiving organization in this project is the River Kelly Fund. A family very unfortunately lost their 3 year old son to a drowning accident. His name was River so I’ll be making his family a river table as a tribute to his life.
The tricky part here is river tables take a very long time because of how long it takes to cure the epoxy used. To meet within the timeframe, I thought instead of cutting the slab and having 3” of epoxy to pour for the river, what about just engraving my own river? Then I would be able to dictate not only it’s placement and flow, but also it’s depth.
It’s easy to place a square object on a CNC and cut whatever intricate pattern you want, because you have references to tell the machine exactly where to start and stop. HOwever, you don’t have that on a live edge slab. So the first challenge to figure out was how to get an accurate cut on an organic piece of material.
Well thankfully, ShopBot CNC also came to Texas for the build to assist and the expert suggested taking a photo of the slab so that it could be imported into the computer then I could draw directly on the image to create the river I wanted.
The Tulip slab had so many beautiful colors and voids over on one side so I drew the heaviest part of the river on the opposite side in order to try and balance it out. I let the natural grain of the wood dictate the flow and mostly the width of the river so that the added feature looked also naturally intergrated. If that makes sense. The CNC then got to work on the river by cutting out the channel.
Now before removing the slab, we need to somehow mark it’s exact (or as exact as we can get it) location because the family wanted scripture along the river bank but hadn’t yet decided which ones. If we weren’t on a time crunch, I would have let it sit but a way to keep moving but still be able to come back to it’s placement is to screw blocks down to the spoil board and mark where each one aligns with the slab. And how this works might make more sense later on when we place it back on the CNC.
For now though, I had to get started on epoxy or there was no way I would make the 48 hour deadline. So bring out the TotalBoat! TotalBoat wasn’t sure exactly what I was doing when they agreed to be a part of this build so they sent a little bit of everything. Thankfully, they have such a broad range in everything epoxy and also agreed to also come to Texas in order to provide their expertise in the challenge.
We first started by experimenting with colors for the river and also the voids. We were aiming for a grayish tone to the river…I didn’t want it to be clear but I also didn’t want it to be black. Once the mixture was figured out then TotalBoat worked on the black which I did want for the voids.
The voids were a huge tricky point. The slab is 3” thick and when pouring epoxy, you should only pour about 1/4” at a time so if I filled the voids completely we would be looking at around 18-20 hours of just pouring.
To get around this, I’m going to cut out a pocket on the underside, larger than all of these voids and make a bottom that goes halfway the depth of the void. That way I only have about an 1.5″ pour, rather than a few inches.
Before trying out the idea, Brandy and I got together to chat through her design of the base and make sure the dimension she had in her design would work with the live edge slab and also the placement of the organic features like the voids.
Once I got the go ahead from her, we let the CNC do it’s thing by cutting a pocket larger than each one of the voids. The only way to get this done in the timeframe was to reduce the depth….and the only way I could see to do that, was to create a bottom.
Now for a choice on material for this plug or faux bottom, I went with plywood. If I had extra Tulip around, then I would have chosen that but I didn’t and I didn’t want to go with a different species because of looks but also since different woods expand and contract at different rates.
As ShopBot cut plugs, I got to work on sealing the slab with TotalBoat.
We first needed to clean everything up really well, we used compressed air and a shop vac for this. Then we started sealing.
The CNC cut this negative. And then these two pieces of plywood glued together are the positive to make this plug. I’m test fitting it here and it feels good. So not we are going to seal the inside.
This was actually new information for me and something I was very excited to learn. If you seal all the areas you’ll be using epoxy then it won’t be able to constantly release gas and cause those pesky air bubbles. This step is quick and you only need to let it sit for 15-20 minutes.
Then to stick the plugs into the hole, we used Total Boat’s Thixo, which is a fast setting epoxy which comes in a syringe. I made a pass around to seal the corners then set the plugs in place. I temporarily glued handles on the top to make setting them in place easier.
Then I caulked around the edges with a fast setting epoxy so that we can flip it over and start the epoxy pour.
Even though we sealed the perimeter, we still applied a layer of painters tape just incase the liquid some how made it’s way out. Leaking epoxy during a pour is not fun.
Ok lets flip it over and start on the face! First step is the same as the back, to seal any surfaces coming in contact with the epoxy. We’re moving quickly because epoxy has a limited open time before it starts kicking and is no longer spreadable.
With things sealed, next was to pour the Total Boat epoxy. Since I went with plywood for the voids, I wanted this epoxy tinted to be black so it would hide the look of the plugs completely from the top of the table. Black might seem like an odd choice but it was chosen because of the natural coloring in the slab already.
After pouring about 1/4” in the voids, I poured the grayish tinted river the same depth and then started the waiting game.
All the while, Brandy had been over on a metal table in my shop, knocking out the base. So since I’m waiting on epoxy, let me catch you up on her process.
Brandy started by marking out her steel according to her cut list. Then, she started cutting all of her material square, with the intention of coming back to add the angles.
Brandy designed an absolutely stunning base for this project and knocked it out of the park on the execution, even though she wasn’t in her shop or around her tools.
For the epoxy, I always thought you needed to let each layer cure all the way before pouring the next, but TotalBoat taught me that you only need to let it reach it’s peak of reaction then when it’s over that peak and going down, you can start the next pour.
How you gauge the status of it’s reaction is by taking it’s temperature. As epoxy is reacting it gets hotter and hotter, so if you use a termal reader on the epoxy you can watch it’s progress and know when it’s climbing, at it’s peak, and then when it finally starts to cool down.
This pour’s process was about an hour and 15 mins to 1.5 hours to go through this climb and decent. Each time it started cooling down, TotalBoat would tint another batch for another 1/4” pour then we waited and watched again. Using a heat gun after each pour to get those bubbles from the pouring action, out. Even with my shortcuts to kill some of the time, it was still a time consuming process.
Thankfully, Make48 not only comes stocked with a trailer full of tools and material but also a kitchen and a great cook named Amy! Amy is also a cofounder of Make48, the other founder is her Husband Tom. Amy made everybody on site three meals a day and used my floating deck to set up a beautiful dining area so that we could eat as one big happy family under a string of lights and the big bright stars of Texas.
The night didn’t end there though. We all stayed another few hours as I had to make sure all the pours got poured that day or I wouldn’t be able to start sanding the next day.
As I was pouring and waiting, Brandy continued pushing along on the base as well. She took my Triton Superjaws one room over and began started beveling the edges of her parts to prep them for welding the next day.
It was such a relief to walk in the next morning and see the epoxy had set up perfectly and was rock solid, meaning I could carry on with the rest of the plans.
By this time, the family who will receive the table picked out two scriptures they wanted engraved on the table, so the slab went back to the CNC. I used the blocks I screwed into the spoil board to get it aligned exactly as it was before, then Gordon from ShopBot tool-pathed the file and let it fly.
While that was going on, Brandy was on the other side making sparks and joining pieces together.
I can’t even tell you how many times this slab got moved around….and it is not light. But it made life so easy by setting the height of my Armor Mobile Workbench to just below the height of the CNC. Allowing me to slide it on and off then move the slab anywhere I needed to work on it.
The flattening step was outside. Brandy wanted to grind her parts and I needed to get the epoxy flush, so we both put on our hearing protection and respirators and got to work.
This was the first time Brandy and I really got to physically work side by side and it’s hard to grasp through footage alone but there was so much positive energy about how things were looking, and also intensity as the clock was ticking.
I ran into an issue when I started to sand…my paper was clogging up so incredibly quickly. I ended up moving an air compressor out with me and would use a nozzle to blow out my paper while my sander was moving, and sure enough….this worked great!
Although, I was still worried about getting it done in time. Thankfully Kristin who is with TotalBoat offered to hop in and give me a hand. She took my Large ROS Sander while I went through with my 4” Belt Sander. I would knock down the highest points with the belt, then she would fine tune it with the ROS. This went on for hours….not just a few, but more like 6 or 7. Brandy was determined to complete her base so we both worked past sunset and into the dark of night.
The following morning, it was go time. We only had until noon if we were going to meet the 48 hour timeline so we started off hustling.
Brandy wanted to set the base in place on the slab to figure out the position. Things not being a square or rectangle, makes things a little trickier you know. So we stood all over the shop looking at it, but once the position looked perfect with the shape of the slab, she went straight into completing her final welds.
With it now all together, Brandy gave it a through cleaning then used a blackening chemical gel to finish off her portion of the project with a stunning outcome.
While she applied her finish to the base, I was applying mine to the top. At this point, all of us were starting to breath easy.
We were doing good on time, we overcame sooo many challenges and had a blast doing it as a team. After letting both the base and the top dry for a bit, we finally put the two pieces together and got a look at the completed outcome for the first time.
It looked incredible.
And if you can’t tell from my retelling of the event, the process was also incredible. This was a big build to take on with the limited amount of time but by pulling together as a team, we were able to get it done.
We all use Spray Paint, so in this video, I’m going to be sharing some tips to help your painting go a little bit smoother.
First tip that’s an easy one to get better results is to shake the can well before use. It really does matter. The marble should be heard rolling around the bottom.
If the can is cold, I often warm the can up by setting it outside in the direct sun light. By the can being warm, the paint will atomize better.
It’s easy to lay stuff on a flat surface but often the item gets glued down by the spray paint. Instead create some sort of stand off. This can happen in a variety of ways. You can grab a scrap of wood and run a screw in so that you can thread and item on. If it’s on the underside then nobody will ever see it.
You can again grab scraps then use a brad nailer to throw a few protruding nails in them. Do this by using any item to compress the head of the nailer in the air instead of the scrap itself. A few of these placed correctly and any item is quickly held up.
Hanging is always a great option for covering all sides at once. I typically clamp a board to my mobile workbench to give me a suspension point. Then I thread in a hook on the end and use bailing wire to create a loop.
It’s temping to spray a part as a whole, but you get a much better result if you take the time to dissemble it first. Use a solvent to remove any oils that will interfere with adhesion.
Once the parts are on a stand off, you can get 100% coverage on all sides.
For screws, you don’t want to get paint on the threads or it won’t thread back in easily. Use some cardboard to poke a hole to punch the screw threads in so only the head is exposed to be painted.
If you have deep chips or scratches in old finish you can sometimes sand them out then use multiple light coats to fill them back in. This won’t work on everything but it’s worth a try before having to sand back the entire piece to repaint.
When painting wood or MDF, I recommend first laying down a sandable primer. This will seal the wood and prevent absorption which will drastically save on the number of coats you’ll have to apply on the painting stage.
Always test the sprayer first on a piece of cardboard to avoid sputter or splatter on your piece.
If a nozzle is spluttering or plugged and won’t clear, just swap it for one that isn’t. They are interchangeable.
To prevent a nozzle from getting clogged in the first place remember to always clean it out before putting a can away. Do this by spraying it upside down, again I use a scrap of cardboard, then use a rag to wipe off the tip.
When it comes to spraying techniques: Always start and and stop the spraying when you’re to the side of the work piece. Each pass should overlap your previous pass by about half. It’s easy to rush but try and control your speed so that it’s nice and even. It’s also easy to swing in an Arc but imagine a straight line as you’re moving.
Instead of stretching over a workpiece, try and rotate it so you can keep spraying at a comfortable range. After getting complete coverage on the first pass, rotate the piece 90 degrees if possible on the second coat. This will give you a more solid appearance.
If you’re covering a large area, something I do that might look silly but certainly works is holding a can of paint in both hands. I push my hands together to get them not only in line but also moving evenly with each other. Get double the coverage for the amount of effort. : )
Of course it never fails that something gets into the fresh coat of paint….I keep tweezers on hand for this.
It’s best to spray multiple light coats to avoid runs but even I struggle with the patience this requires. If you get a run I find it best to dab at it instead of wiping it. It isn’t as perfect as several light coats without runs but if the piece isn’t prominent, then it will do in a pitch.
Hopefully you learned a thing or two, or this has served as a good reminder when you are spray painting your projects. Leave me a comment below if I missed your favorite spray painting tip.
I have lots of items in my shop that I don’t need to access super often so storing them above with FlexiMount’s 4×8 Overhead Garage Storage Racks is a great solution. By utilizing unused overhead space, you can get your items off of the floor and out of the way.
These overhead racks are strong and secure and really have unmatched strength compared to competing products. The heavy duty construction provides the ability to safely load them up to 600lbs and they are easy to DIY your own installation.
Their heavy gauge steel construction allows for safely loading up to 400 lbs total, and you can secure them to wall studs, suitable for different stud spacing, or even a solid concrete wall.
If you’d like to check out these Fleximount’s products for your own storage solutions, be sure and check out the links in this description or below. Thanks so much to Fleximount for supporting what I do!
Be sure and watch the video for an even better tutorial. I’ll see you on the next project.
This week I tackled a coffee table. Well, not only a coffee table, but a table that can go from the height of a coffee table to a dining table. Oh, and because I struggle with designing something that doesn’t have storage….I incorporated a sneaky storage spot to put away electronics but keep them within reach.
The way this design works is the table can be used at two different heights. To achieve this, there is a set of tall lets and a set of short lets. Both work independently of each other on a hinge.
Organizing a shop is never ending, but here are 16 very simple solutions that will help you get a head start.
These electrical boxes are super cheap and a very quick way of creating a storage compartment on the edge of any workbench.
Even cheaper is a picture hanger, hammer this into the side of any shop surface and automatically have a spot for a tape to be placed.
Want a convent compartment to hold small parts without being on the workbench? PVC end caps just need a hole and one screw to become a very handy parts trey that’s quick to deploy but just as quick to stow away.
Here is a quick solution for a drill. Drill a hole in the side of a workbench then thread in a large hook that’s coated in rubber.
There, a quick holster to keep your drill off the surface of your work area but still within reach.
Do you keep misplacing your drill press chuck key? Throw a magnet on the side so you’ll never have to wonder where you put it this time….
Now for larger items like a shop vac hose or extension cords, simply drive an eyelet hook in the wall with a short length of chain.
You can place the chain through anything rolled up and store it in place by just hooking the other end of chain to the hook.
A perfect use for an old paper towel rack is to throw it on your shop wall and store all your rolls of tape.
Or if you have an old towel rack, you can very easily screw it into the wall and have a spot for hand clamps.
For a wide range of hand tools, you can grab some PVC pipe and use the miter saw to cut two 45 angles on the ends.
Punch a hole through one end so that you can screw it to the wall and have a place to quickly place your hand tools.
Same concept for this hack but using larger diameter PVC and mounting it on the wall with the angle facing the wall. Now you have a quick storage spot for tubes of caulking.
Another way is to make a wooden shelf out of some scraps. Punch some holes with a forstner bit and then mount it to a wall. Now the tubes can store upside down.
This one isn’t the most elegant looking (although I guess PVC isn’t that elegant either), but a large shoe compartment is cheap, easy to install on a wall, and will hold a large assortment of items that are easy to see and grab.
Instead of hanging things the traditional way on pegboard, a different way is to slip a piece of PVC onto the peg holders then store a variety of items in the center.
I particularly like these for sazall blades. Your whole collection can be stores on one ring then hung up for easy visibility and grabbing.
A simple solution for anything from pencils, to a router collect wrench is to screw a single tool pouch to your wall.
A good solution for tons of things are these plastic J hooks. They are less than a dollar each but are super easy to mount to the wall and could be used to hold a boom for example, or rolled up cords, or even welding hoods.
The Smart Jars system has quickly become one of my favorite ways to organize hardware in the shop. The system is made of of these docks that fit into a standard pegboard. Inside each dock is a plastic container.
I love that you have the option to leave a container in a dock and grab what you need. Or, you can take the whole container to your workstation. All of the containers are laid over so the face of the container is facing you so you can easily see what you have inside of it. Of course a labeling system could also be added to the face of each container.
They are made in the USA. And, if you aren’t a fan of standard pegboard, they also sell plastic pegboard.
This is obviously useful in the shop, but could also be useful in the kitchen as a spice rack or even for arts and crafts supplies and legos. The options are endless.
Definitely give Smart Jars a look for your shop’s organization.
Even if these aren’t your permanent solutions, getting things off the ground and off your workbench is a great use of time so I hope you’re able to put at least one of them to use.
On Dec. 10, ACA submitted comments to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) on the agency’s draft risk assessments (DRA) for several isothiazolinones biocides used as product preservatives in the coatings industry. These biocides play a key role for in-can preservation and to prevent microbial attack in formulated products.
The risk assessments fall under EPA’s routine review of antimicrobial pesticides, as required by the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA).
The isothiazolinone biocides under review are:
1,2-benzisothiazol-3(2H)-one, 2-butyl (BBIT)
3:1 mixture of 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiasolin-3-one (CMIT) and MIT
3(2H)-isothiazolone, 4,5-dichloro-2-octyl (DCOIT)
ACA is concerned that action by EPA to restrict or ban these biocides would leave manufacturers of formulated products with little to no viable options for product preservation.
In its comments, ACA underscored the agency’s Risk Assessment assumptions over-estimate exposure and risk, and that its association of health effects with isothiazolinone exposure as used in paints and coatings is indefinite.
What’s more, ACA contends that the use levels cited in EPA’s DRAs do not accurately reflect use in paints and coatings.
Notably, EPA combined evaluation of both MIT and the mixture CMIT/MIT in a single DRA. In its comments ACA noted that MIT, a valuable long-term preservative, a separate biocide, merits its own DRA, due to its separate hazard profile and unique exposure considerations.
ACA maintains that paint needs a quick-kill biocide prior to long-term protection offered by other preservatives. Moreover, combining evaluations leads to an inaccurate understanding of potential risks posed by MIT and the CMIT/MIT mixture.
As such, ACA urged EPA re-issue updated DRAs and engage in a subsequent comment period. Without such an opportunity, ACA is worried that misleading results will continue to be included in the DRAs and result in unnecessary risk mitigation steps, especially for MIT which merits its own DRA.
While recognizing the importance of product safety, ACA recommended that EPA take no additional risk mitigation measures — unless or until new risk assessment measures are evaluated. ACA’s comments provided information relevant to the following points:
Use levels in paints and coatings, according to current manufacturer specifications, are well below those assumed in EPA’s DRA for the five isothiazolinones (see Table 1).
Except for MIT, isothiazolinone biocides have a negligible vapor pressures with minimal risks of inhalation exposure. Dermal exposure is avoided by using enclosed systems or chemical-resistant gloves.
Through a survey and by reviewing WPEM defaults, ACA identified several exposure assumptions that generally over-estimate exposure and risk and should be refined.
Role of Biocides in Paint
Paint and coatings products have moved from solvent based to water based technology, resulting in formulations that are much lower in volatile organic compound (VOC) content that results in lower emissions during application and drying. These low VOC formulations would not be possible without antimicrobial preservatives that are essential to coatings manufacturing; enhancing product shelf-life; and ensuring the product does not spoil before being used.
Because of this critical function in certain paint products, without the use of listed biocides, the following short-term and long-term problems have a high probability of occurring:
Foul and potentially unhealthy odor exuding persistently from any painted dry surface contaminated with biological growth;
Increased construction waste to remove contaminated surfaces caused by ineffective prevention of dry-film biological growth (e.g., mold, mildew, algae, and fungi);
Increased manufacturing of paint and construction products to meet the demands of replacing damaged surfaces and spoiled products, which puts stress on resources needed to provide natural and synthetic raw materials;
Increased energy usage to meet consumption demands of manufacturing and distribution; and
Health complaints, odor complaints, and personal injury or property damage lawsuits filed by consumers.
As such, ACA also recommended that EPA consider the environmental and public health benefits from product preservation brought by isothiazolinones, especially considering the minimal risk to end-users
OIT had been banned for use in these products by PMRA since May 2019.
This action by PMRA of this decision will ensure paint products access to a critical biocide preservative, but at a slightly lower limit, noted by agency as follows:
For use as a mildewcide in coatings such as latex and solvent-based paints, semi-transparent stains and solid stains. Use 1.2 to 1.8 Kg/1000 L of this product in coating formulations. The active ingredient in the above label is 45% OIT.
For use as a mildewcide in building materials such as elastomeric roof and wall coatings and mastics, caulks, sealants, joint cements, spackling, stucco and grouting, use 1.2 to 2.3 Kg/1000 L at 45% active ingredient.
In wallpaper pastes and adhesives, use as a mildewcidal preservative to protect materials such as polyvinyl acetate starch and dextrin based pastes from fungal attack after they are applied. Use 0.8 to 1.2 Kg/1000 L at 45% active ingredient.
In aqueous adhesive and tackifier preservation, use as a mildewcidal preservative in water soluble and water dispersed adhesives such as animal glues, vegetable glues, natural rubber latices, polyvinyl acetate, styrene butadiene, polyurethane, epoxy, acrylic latices, and tackifiers derived from rosin and hydrocarbon resins, use 1.2 to 2.3 Kg/1000 L at 45% active ingredient.
Notably, paint formulators must comply with restrictions on use conveyed by its biocide supplier.
OIT is among the biocides used in paints and coatings to prevent microbial growth and degradation during manufacturing and product shelf-life; ensure the product does not spoil before being used; and also protect the paint film after application.
In May 2019, Canada’s PMRA implemented a ban of OIT over industry objections, both from CPCA and ACA, following an agency exposure evaluation of OIT data.
With 45 percent of paint products sold in Canada being manufactured in the United States, the ban raised concerns for U.S. manufacturers. Many U.S. companies questioned the scope of the ban as it applied to raw materials with residual amounts of OIT. While a U.S. company could continue to use such raw materials to make paint products for the Canadian market if the OIT in the final product is not added for an intentional preservative effect, companies had to evaluate for an intentional preservative effect considering concentration of OIT in the final product, typical uses of OIT, and any claims related to biocidal properties on the label of the final product.
While ACA created extensive guidance for U.S. manufacturers to understand the implications of the ban, it continued to work with CPCA to support advocacy efforts to reverse or mitigate the ban.
ACA welcomed PMRA’s action to restore the use of OIT in paint and coatings products, even at a slightly lower limit.
The U.S. Environmental Protection (EPA) is currently evaluating risk for several biocides used as product preservatives in the coatings industry, including OIT. ACA is engaging with the agency on this matter, and has submitted comments to the agency on its draft risk evaluations.
To help align regulatory policy and practice in both the United States and Canada, ACA and CPCA have also sought the aid of the U.S.-Canada Regulatory Cooperation Council (RCC). The RCC’s mission is to, to facilitate consistent health, safety, and environmental protection mandates and reduce unnecessary differences between their regulatory frameworks for similar products crossing the border both ways.
Both ACA and CPCA have urged the RCC to provide a forum for stakeholders, including industry, consumers, and non-government organizations, address and prioritize the biocides issues and the regulatory barriers. ACA and CPCA will continue to create and pursue opportunities for regulatory cooperation on this issue.
Clariant announced last week that Conrad Keijzer will become Clariant’s new chief executive officer. Keijzer will join the company as of Jan. 1. Hariolf Kottmann, executive chairman ad interim. will then return to his position as chairman of the board.
Keijzer, 52, has a long and successful track record in the chemical industry, most notably his 24 years with the paints and coatings manufacturer AkzoNobel. At AkzoNobel, he last held the position as CEO of the Performance Coatings Division and was a member of the Executive Committee. Most recently, Keijzer was CEO at Imerys, the French supplier of mineral-based specialty solutions.
“Our Group will benefit greatly from both his international experience and his track record in the specialty chemicals industry,” Kottmann said. “With his impressive accomplishments in managing large industrial and chemical businesses, his experience in working in different regions, his proven focus on customer needs and his passion for sustainability, Conrad Keijzer is an excellent choice to guide Clariant into a successful future.”