While putting together our house’s before & after page and paint color/source page last week, we realized that the photos for a couple of rooms were already looking out of date. One notable example was our upstairs family room, which has gotten a few important additions since we first shared it back in July. Can you spot them?
sofa | similar rug | chair | desk | ottomans | wall bookcase | blue drum stool | similar basket table | chandelier | similar beanbag | similar art
Probably the most prominent update is the addition of this oversized capiz globe light that has literally been in Sherry’s mood boards and Pinterest pages for years. It’s probably one of Serena & Lily’s most well-known designs, but we’ve never had a spot where it made sense (or could fit!). That is until we found ourselves owning this living room with generous vaulted ceilings (they’re around 10′ tall at the peak).
Now that the framing of the substructure of this deck is done, we needed to work on the rim joist. This is the piece that attaches to the front of each tail of the joists, connecting them together and creating those graceful but difficult curves.
If you missed the first part of this build, be sure and check that out HERE
We did a lot of brainstorming on how to get this curved rim joist.
We went with our plan A which was to use a 2×12 on all of the straight sections, then 1/2” plywood on the curves. The hope was that the 1/2” ply would be malleable enough to make the curves without snapping. Then we would build up the thickness needed by laminating three layers of plywood together.
Let me kill the suspense and tell you that it worked like a charm and while it was a very time consuming process, it was very satisfying and man, what a transformation it made to the deck.
We would start by cutting full sheets of plywood into strips, utilizing the top half of our scaffolding as a large workbench and outfield table.
Actually, this was often used as a walking platform when working on this side of the deck as well. After cutting strips, we would pick out and use the ones with the clearest grain. We noticed that any strips with crazy grain orientation would want to snap under the pressure. Sure you could always kerf the back, but instead we stuck with clear grain pieces and didn’t have a single one fail on the install.
The first layer of the strip would then need to be cut to the needed length so it would end at the center of a joist. Then to start attaching it, each joist tail was coated in a quick drying construction adhesive.
Then the start of the board would be attached with a few screws and a heavy duty metal clamp, while the majority of the board would be held out straight.
Now deploy all the other clamps you have and then some, to start making the curve. As one of us would make the bend, the other would be setting clamps to keep it bent or driving in screws if that was enough to hold it.
I don’t know if you can make it out but the straight 2×12 has a half lap on both ends and you’ll see how this comes into play in just a few minutes.
The first layer of 1/2” ply butted up against this half lap on this side, then ended half on a joist at the other end. Which is where another first layer started.
Once the entire curve had the first layer established, now we repeated the process but with layer two. This is where the plywood strip would start on top of the half lap of the straight 2×12 which helps join things together by tying it in.
On this layer we tried to leave the strips as long as we could, only cutting something shorter if the seam lined up too close with the lower layer seam.
After getting the entire 2nd layer attached with construction adhesive, clamps, and screws, we repeated for a third time on layer three. Again being mindful to stagger the seams. We were also really diligent about looking for gaps. The larger clamps did a great job at holding the big spaces closed but some areas required quite a few smaller clamps in between to really close all the gaps. So after getting the bulk curve in place, we doubled checked both the top and bottom seam to see where it needed extra persuasion.
After getting a curve done, Jake went back and added in a few bolts to the connection between the 2×12 straight rim and the laminated ply rim.
We started off with the tightest and hardness radius then moved out from there. While everything else was more simple with the curves, it was still a pretty time consuming process. It took us two days to get them all set. None of us minded though, I honestly was fascinated by the process and was also extremely giddy about the drastic change it was making to the deck.
You know the great thing about building a deck in the trees? I’ll always be able to see the intricate and beautiful framing of it. The framing of a structure is one of my favorite things to look at so I’m so happy I have a way of being able to see this one.
With the rim joist done, it’s onto the next major step of the project which is covering up the substructure with decking. The first thing in this step was to first apply a protective tape to the top side of every single surface of the framing. If you’ve ever had to demo a deck before, you’ll know that the top side of the framing is typically rotten even when the rest of the board isn’t, this tape is designed to protect the tops of all of these members by acting as a barrier between wood and moisture.
So while this step is a little time consuming, it will drastically effect the life span of your structure. I’m using the Trex Protect tape Beam and Joist Tape which is a self-adhesive butyl tape that won’t bleed, dry out quickly, or curl up like many asphalt based tapes.
After that step, it was right into attaching the deck boards. One of the challenges here was getting material staged up on the deck for us to pull from. We ended up utilizing the fork lift again to lift a big stack of material up into the air, then a few carefully placed walk boards to allow us to assembly line unload and slide over to the start position.
For this project I am very excited to be working with Trex, using their Transcend decking line which is a composite decking material.
One main reason for going with a composite is it’s superior durability. unlike wood, and even many PVC options, high-performance Trex decking resists fading, scratching and mold – and won’t rot, warp, crack or splinter. Another huge high point is high-performance Trex composites retain their beauty for decades with minimal upkeep meaning I won’t ever have to sand and refinish this massive surface.
I didn’t want the deck to be all one color and pattern. To give it some visual interest we placed a dark stripe right on top of the three joists sistered together then used a lighter color on the rest. This stripe was our starting point for the decking. The boards aren’t long enough to span from the front all the way to the back so we were again conscious and choosy about where we landed the seams on the boards we put down. Not only staggering them but also making sure the butt joint would be on a wide support for both boards coming together.
With the stripe down we picked up the lighter color and started working to the left. Working around the trees isn’t difficult but it is going to be time consuming so to start off we actually started laying down the deck boards that would be a continuous run from the center stripe all the way off the deck. This meant we work in front of the back tree all the way until the back of the front most tree.
You can see we’re placing full boards down then letting the free end run wild. This is another time the accurate 3D model of the project was handy: When ordering the deck boards, we already knew the dimension of this area and could order boards in different lengths instead of just guessing or working with one size and having a ton of waste.
I’ll tell you the best part about this step….creating a super easy walking surface! After a week and a half of having to move a ladder anywhere we wanted to go, or balancing and picking a small path, it was a giant relief to have a solid and large area to not only walk but to also work from.
At the end of day 1 on decking, we only made it this far….but remember the first day of a new process is always the most time consuming. We finished the day by using a circular saw to cut the majority of the wild end off so it doesn’t strain the portion of the board that is attached to the deck.
Day 2 on decking, we covered much more ground, largely because we had our system figured out. What we worked out is a two man team works best. One person could set the new deck board in place and do all the pre drilling, while a second person followed behind actually driving in the screws.
For a securing method, we’re using the hidden fastener approach meaning the screws go into the side of the deck boards instead of on the face where you’ll be able to see them.
I love the way the boards look without screws showing everywhere, it’s a small thing but gives the finished appearance a super clean and tidy look. To accomplish this look, we’re using an incredibly handy deck jig made by Kreg specifically for this hidden fastner approach.
It’s very unassuming because it’s small and lightweight, but this simple jig takes out almost all of the thought work in laying down the deck boards. The face of the jig is covered in useful alignment tools for getting the jig in line with the joist, whether it be straight or at an angle. A pre drill bit that has a collar on it is included so that when you set the jig in place to drill a hole, the collar will regulate the depth, not allowing you to go too shallow or deep.
Next you can drop a screw into the same port and use the driver bit (also with a collar) to set the screw. The collar once again now allowing you to go over or under tighten. After that you can repeat with the next hole.
Something I didn’t realize until tackling this project is composite decking expands and contracts just like real wood does. With that, a 1/4” space needs to be left in between each board to allow for movement. The Kreg Deck Jig comes with three spacers to make this job go quicker. It isn’t crucial that the spacers be placed when predrilling the holes, but it is when the screws start going in. If they aren’t set then the screw will push the board over, messing up the gap.
Once we got to the second side of the deck we really started flying. We again started in the center of the deck so we could lay down a ton of boards without having to work around the trees. Jake and David both took a side, working out from the middle, and I would hop back and forth to do the predrilling so that we could all keep moving.
Something else that made this job go quick is having a good set of knee pads. You’ll see that I am able to easily slide from joist to joist, moving the Kreg jig along to very quickly knock out the pre drilling. This was my first time trying out these ToughBuilt knee pads and I was beyond impressed.
They might look a little intense but they are extremely comfortable and are designed with full mobility in mind. t’s not only easy and comfortable to go from standing to kneeling but the design also keeps the pads square on the knee and won’t allow it to side shift.
Ok lets talk about working around these trees. Again, it’s important to leave room for movement here. There is 7” around the tree on the framing for growth, but on the decking we ultimately wanted to leave 2”. This will be for when the wind blows and the trees moves a bit. Should the tree get closer to the edge of any deck surface in the future then they can always be trimmed back some. For now though, we would just get close then do all the final trimming and sizing at the very end.
So each board would get roughly cut with a jig saw so all the boards around the tree could be laid down and attached. Once the tree was fully covered on all side then the final cut would happen.
Jake held onto a putty knife that is exactly 2” wide to make this step easier. He would run the putty knife around the base of the tree and mark off with a sharpie where 2” fell, then use a jigsaw to cut it out.
It took us 2.5 days to complete the decking and man, it was a wonderful feeling getting to the very end. We were all very smoked but extremely satisfied.
Of course we weren’t quite done yet. At this point all the ends are still left running wild and need to be cut flush to the rim joist. I planned on doing this with a flush trim bit in a router but to ease the amount of work the bit had to do, we first used a combination of a jigsaw or circular saw to trim the bulk of the overhang. Then came back with a router to square it up nice and neat. Whew, look at those curves coming out.
Ahhhh, oh my goodness. What a tremendous amount of work but it’s soo cool and also so beautiful.
I love the overall high definition wood grain patterns of this Trex decking with the Havana Gold boards having a warm, golden color while Spiced Rum offers an appealing contrast with its earthy umber tones. It’s very reassuring after all this work that it’s stunning vibrancy will remain unchanged for years.
Ok hang in there with me, it might seem like a good stopping point but there was one more major step to complete this portion of the build, Fasca. This is the board that will cover up the face of the wooden rim joist. So more curves.
Thankfully this Trex composite decking is flexible and didn’t have any issues with the job. The Trex facia boards might look the same but they are actually slightly thinner than the deck boards. For color I went with the darker color of the stripe on the deck which is Spiced Rum. This way when looking at the deck from the top, the Havana Gold will be outlined with the darker color.
These boards are installed very easily, by simply holding the board in place then screwing it into the rim joist. Before getting started we first went around the deck and painted a small portion a dark color. This is because it will take two facia boards stacked on top of each other to make up the height of the rim joist. So instead of having the pressure treated wood showing through, this will help camouflage the gap.
Next we started with the top board. Here we position the board just slightly over flush with the top of the deck. That’s because this board will want to expand and contract up and down and when it contracts I don’t want the deck edge being exposed. David and I actually started off trying to stick with the hidden faster approach even on this facia but noticed that it wasn’t holding the boards down all the way on the tighter curved surfaces. With that, we switched over to face screwing the boards on instead.
With the deck on, it’s pretty difficult to utilize clamps so instead one of us would hold out the long board so that it would be as straight as possible while the other person would slowly work towards the end screwing it down as they went.
We first went around the entire deck and attached the top boards. This way we could work with full length boards and see where the seams would fall, then also avoid working around the beams for the mean time.
On the second pass we repeated the process but on the bottom. Here the main thing we looked for is to once again make sure the seams would be staggered. This step of the process went very quick and we were able to complete the entire facia in just a single day.
: ) Would you take a look at that. I can’t express how giddy I was at this point. Also very tired, this was a massive undertaking and I think that’s saying something, coming from me. Ha.
Next up for Part 3 of the deck will be building a unique set of stairs for it. So if you’re enjoying the build, be sure to stay tuned.
Where are my Halloween lovin’ friends? Time for some Halloween fun!
I’ve rounded up some DIYShowOff Halloween ideas from DIYShowOff past for inspiration for your upcoming weekend Halloween projects.
Past DIYShowOff Halloween Ideas
Skeleton Fairy Couture – perfect for adding Halloween touches to your decor. Attach to a wreath, pin onto your jacket, position in a plant, unlimited ideas and so much fun – a little reminiscent of playing with paper dolls only more creative and 3D. I’m on the hunt for supplies again this year…with felt accents for skeleton diffusers! CUTE!
Halloween (witch) dreamcatcher // tea party – this whimsical witch-catcher is just too cute! A great Halloween themed craft idea. Gather some friends and cider! Or make one up and add it to your “BOO” for a friend or neighbor.
The Raven inspired Halloween party ideas – throwing a monster bash? A black and white Poe theme is perfectly POEtic! I’m gathering up my props from the past to create a Poe-themed window at my wellness studio. Can’t wait!
monster repellent Halloween party favor recipe – you just might want to use this all year long! Still holding out on trying essential oils? Learn more at my Wellness Website to get your essential oils and to be a part of our amazing community of friends!
DIY chicken wire/cheesecloth spooky skeleton ghost – this guy hangs out in our (storage) barn all year long until it’s time to come out of hiding! A scary sight when you walk in to rummage through the treasures. And a fun addition to the grape arbor/gazebo with the curtains blowing around. Spooky!
DIY ‘Nevermore’ tree Halloween decor – grab some branches from the yard and ravens from the Dollar Store and your glue gun! Easy fun craft time!
This video is all about solutions for tricky clamping situations when the usual methods just won’t work. Check it out.
When you have an unusual shape and multiple joints that need securing at the same time, grab a scrap board and place your glue up on top.
Now place a scrap blocks at the ends as well as the joints, then attach them to the backer board with a screw. Leave just a slight gap so that next you can use some wedges to apply pressure at every joint.
When you’re trying to clamp onto a sloped surface, the clamp will just slip more as you tighten more. To solve this, grab a scrap and make two notch boards that have parallel clamping surfaces. You can leave a foot at the end of these boards to hook onto your project.
When gluing on something long, such as this trim piece, you could use as many clamps as you can get on the surface…..or you can use a caul. This caul has a slight cup in it and if you place it with the curve facing the trim piece, you can use two clamps on either end to apply even pressure over the entire length.
With a similar principal in mind, another method would be to use F style clamps but leave a small gap between the trim and the neck of the clamp.
This way you can use a wedge to apply a larger footprint of pressure and not have to use so many clamps.
A different method of cauls is glue cauls….have you ever had something longer than your clamps that you needed to clamp together? Instead of buying 8’ clamps a trick is to first glue down some scrap blocks to brown construction paper. Then glue the paper down on either side of your joint.
After about 30 seconds and a bit of downward pressure, the pieces are ready to be clamped onto and pull things together. After it dried, the cauls can be knocked off and the paper sanded away.
I) Another work around for not having really long clamps is to prop your glue up on two boards then screw down a scrap at the end.
Now on the end you need to clamp something to, use another scrap with a lag bolt threaded in the edge.
Screw it down so the lag bolt is touching the wood, then as you thread out on the lag bolt, it applies pressure to the joint and negates having to have extremely long clamps.
Pieces often shift during clamping which can be frustrating so to get a perfectly flush edge, use a scrap to shoot a brad nail or two into the edge of the wood.
Trim off the head so only a small nub is remaining. Now line up your joining board and press it down onto the nails.
Now when you clamp the joint, the slick surface won’t matter.
I love that last trick but another method that gets the same results is biscuits.
They also won’t allow your boards to shift while applying pressure with a clamp.
Sometimes when clamping, you’ll run into situations where the clamps don’t have a long enough reach.
Hand Screw clamps are a wonderful solution because they are made with a wooden body, meaning you can very quickly screw on extensions for any length you need.
Want a more even pressure when clamps can’t reach the center of a board? Never rule out just dumb weight.
So many items around a shop can work for clamping including…extra glue bottles….
Pavers…..
Or even a bucket of water set directly on top or on an expanded footprint that fits the surface area.
Or one I particular like is a door jam. If you have a mobile work bench, roll the glue up to a door jam and use a few scraps to go up to the jam.
You can place them at a slight angle then use wedges to get them snug. Now as you tap them vertical it applies more pressure down to the workpiece. If you create a larger footprint like I have with 2x4s, then the pressure is distributed over the entire piece.
Then last but not least, don’t rule out the power of tape. When glueing together four miters, lay out a piece of tape with the adhesive facing up.
Place your parts so that the corners touch, then after applying glue, simply roll it up and let it dry.
I hope these tips have helped you learn a trick or two! Leave me a comment below and let me know what your favorite trick is, if I didn’t mention it.
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Vestas and Hempel have announced that they are teaming up in a new strategic partnership to cooperate around innovative solutions for surface protection of wind turbines. According to the companies, the joint Vestas and Hempel ambition is to reduce surface treatment costs and support sustainable coating solutions. At the same time, Hempel will reportedly continue to assist Vestas in remaining competitive throughout the entire process of becoming CO2 neutral by 2030.
At Vestas’ Colorado wind tower manufacturing site, Vestas and Hempel will closely collaborate on bringing down costs and exploring new digital solutions to improve quality control and the CO2 footprint of the production of wind turbines. Initial calculations demonstrate that changing the processes surrounding the surface treatment application will potentially generate a 60 percent reduction in CO2 emissions equal to 1,100 tons CO2 per year, Vestas reported.
“We are pleased to extend our long-term relationship with Hempel with this partnership. It is a great example of how we make sustainability part of everything we do and how we strive to engage in close and mutually beneficial partnerships across our value chain to improve both our operational efficiency and sustainability performance,” said Vestas COO Tommy Rahbek Nielsen.
Sherwin-Williams has announced that the move to the new headquarters in Cleveland and the R&D center in Brecksville is now scheduled to occur sometime in 2024, compared to the previously announced date of late 2023. In February, the company announced that it would keep its world headquarters in Cleveland by building a new facility just west of Public Square while also building a new R&D center in Brecksville.
Sherwin-Williams said some of the project activities were paused in April, but it did not elaborate as to why they were paused. No decision has yet been made about the disposition of the company’s current headquarters and R&D center, located in Cleveland at West Prospect Avenue and Canal Road, respectively, or its facility on Warrensville Center Road.
Additionally, the company has announced key project partners to include the following groups and organizations:
Pickard Chilton Architects, Inc. – Design architect for the global headquarters
HGA Architects and Engineers, LLC (HGA) – Base building architect for the global headquarters; Design, base building and interior architect for the R&D Center
Vocon Partners, LLC – Interior architect for the global headquarters
Welty Gilbane, a Joint Venture – Construction manager
Mark G. Anderson Consultants, Inc. (MGAC) – Project manager, project controls and owner’s representative
CBRE Inc. – Real estate and economic development advisor
Vorys, Sater, Seymour and Pease LLP – Legal and economic development counsel
Hanson Bridgett LLP – Legal counsel
inSITE Advisory Group – Economic development advisor
“The key partners we have selected are aligned with our vision of creating a next generation workplace that supports serving our customers at the highest level, retaining and attracting top talent, and igniting creativity, collaboration and industry-leading innovation,” said John G. Morikis, Sherwin-Williams chairman and CEO.
The company is expected to invest a minimum of $600 million to build both facilities. The two facilities will reportedly house more than 3,500 employees with room to accommodate future growth. Over time, Sherwin-Williams will add a minimum of 400 jobs at these facilities over time, according to the company.
IMERYS and IMCD have announced the expansion of their distribution agreement. IMCD will now represent IMERYS Performance Minerals as its Preferred Distributor across the United States and Canada. The partnership is expected to provide customers with a consolidated point of contact ready to provide access to IMERYS’ expansive multi-mineral product portfolio, backed by IMCD’s technical sales expertise, laboratory support, and extensive footprint in the region, the companies reported. IMCD will represent nearly all IMERYS mineral offerings, with the exception of air float kaolin in Canada.
“This expanded distribution agreement is a testament to the trust and confidence we strive to build with our supplier partners,” said Marcus Jordan, Americas president, IMCD. “Teaming up with IMCD across the U.S. and Canada means access to our coast-to-coast, market-focused technical knowledge and logistical reach, delivering effective solutions, driving innovation and cultivating market growth. We very much look forward to further developing our already successful partnership with IMERYS.”
AkzoNobel’s aerospace coatings facility in Dongguan, China, has been qualified by aircraft manufacturer Boeing to color blend the company’s Aerodur 3001 basecoat. The certification means the site has been certified by Boeing to blend AkzoNobel’s industry-leading basecoat/clearcoat system, Aerodur 3001/3002, locally in China with OEM (original equipment manufacturer) approval. The Dongguan facility is also now listed on Boeing’s official QPL for BMS10-72 specification.
The company stated that QPL approval status is an important milestone for the facility, which opened in 2017 to specifically serve the North and South Asian aviation market and deliver cutting-edge technologies faster and more reliably. “We’re proud to receive this certification from Boeing,” said Ron Fattal, AkzoNobel’s key account manager for Boeing. “It’s further recognition of our commitment to putting the needs of our customers at the heart of our product development.”
The Dongguan site has been open since December 2001, with the Aerospace Coatings facility being added as an expansion in early 2017.
WACKER has opened a global competence center for thermal interface materials in Shanghai, China. The new laboratory is located at the company’s China headquarters in Caohejing High-Tech Park. The company’s new R&D lab in Shanghai will focus on the development of silicone-based thermal interface materials (TIM) and novel applications. “With the new lab installed, WACKER will be able to significantly improve its capability of fundamental research for such materials and come up with tailor-made products to support our customers around the world,” Stated Christian Gimber, head of Engineering Silicones at WACKER’s silicone division.
At WACKER’s TIM competence center, experts will reportedly conduct fundamental research aimed at overcoming technical hurdles with regard to performance, processability and cost-effectiveness and leverage WACKER’s proprietary technology to work on new material designs. “For improved thermal management of components, the industry is increasingly turning to heat-dissipation materials,”Gimber added. “Our thermally conductive silicones can be processed very efficiently, and they also meet the stringent and rising safety and reliability requirements imposed by the electronics and automotive industries.”
The company added that the facility will develop customized products and solutions with locally available raw materials for the Chinese market, but also support other labs in the company’s worldwide network, such as labs in Germany and Korea, when creating new formulations. WACKER stated that the demand for silicone-based TIMs is expected to grow continuously, as power density is rising exponentially and thermal management systems become increasingly important.
“China’s range of TIM applications is quite remarkable and one of the most comprehensive in the world. What’s more, operating a major TIM research facility here in China also means that our Chinese customers will be able to benefit from a faster response time,” said Paul Lindblad, president of WACKER Greater China.
On Sept. 14, ACA submitted comments to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) on its proposed rule codifying requirements for “Made in the USA” (MUSA) label statements. With the proposal, FTC intends to formalize requirements for MUSA claims. FTC has a long history of deeming unqualified MUSA claims as deceptive under the FTC Act.
FTC considers products with more than a de minimis amount of components manufactured outside the United States as violating its MUSA requirements. In 1997, FTC formalized that policy in its Enforcement Policy Statement on U.S. Origin Claims (“Policy Statement”), elaborating that a marketer making an unqualified claim for its product should, at the time of the representation, have a reasonable basis for asserting that “all or virtually all” of the product is made in the United States. FTC now proposes a MUSA Labeling Rule incorporating this established standard pursuant to its rulemaking authority under 15 U.S.C. 45a.
FTC has noted that consumers perceive MUSA claims as an indication that a product consists of all or virtually all ingredients or components that are made and sourced in the United States.
FTC’s proposal follows the agency’s previous MUSA Decisions and Orders by prohibiting marketers from including unqualified MUSA claims on labels unless:
Final assembly or processing of the product occurs in the United States;
All significant processing that goes into the product occurs in the United States; and
All or virtually all ingredients or components of the product are made and sourced in the United States.
The proposal also covers labels making unqualified MUSA claims appearing in electronic or mail order advertising and other printed materials.
In its comments, ACA suggested that FTC provide additional guidance addressing percentage values and/or other guidance to assist manufacturers in determining the amount of trace components of foreign or unknown origin that can be included in a product, where the product is labeled with an unqualified “Made in USA” statement, to promote consistent information to consumers. ACA underscored further complication by changes in supply of raw materials: ACA member companies typically purchase raw materials from distributors; and these raw materials may be mixtures with some foreign produced components or raw materials in bulk form with a higher purity than mixtures. Due to these muddying factors, consumers may not receive consistent messaging with unqualified MUSA label statements. Companies interpret the threshold of “all or virtually all ingredients” differently, using varying amounts of trace level components of foreign or unknown origin. As such, additional FTC guidance would be helpful to companies to assure labels meet FTC requirements, prior to modifying labels.
ACA also urged FTC to consider delaying the effective date of the amended MUSA rule by one to three years from publication, considering companies’ good faith efforts to comply and navigate changing consumer perception. This would allow time for sale of old products already in distribution, often placed in distribution several years prior, while companies replenish supply with products with updated labels. Delayed enforcement would be consistent with FTC’s statement that this rule would “strengthen its enforcement program and make it easier for businesses to understand and comply with the law.”
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